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Lawn Care 101: Keeping It Simple
By SueAnn DuBois*
 

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Time to start thinking lawn care!  The snow has melted (well for those of us in Greenfield, the piles still remain!), the ground beginning to dry out a bit, and those commercial begin to bombard you on TV and radio!  Every homeowner has their own particular reason for wanting a nice green carpet surrounding their home.  Some go for the overall aesthetics, the accent to your colorful garden beds, THE CHALLENGE, or just the friendly neighborhood competition.  Whatever the reason, knowing WHAT to do and WHEN to do it makes all the difference.  Forget those commercials with families frolicking on the lush green carpet with the deliberate brand endorsement. Don’t buy into a product…buy into a process! There are basically 6 factors to consider for a healthy lawn. 

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Start with the Right Grass
Grass is a plant, and just as varieties of annual and perennial flowers need different conditions to grow, various grasses are suited for certain conditions of sun/shade and soil.  In our area, choose cool season grasses such as Kentucky Blue grass, perennial rye grasses and fescues. When I am looking for great region specific grass seed and have questions I go to the Seed Guru Joe at Nemics Farm and Garden Henry Street in Saratoga Springs. Joe’s Race Track Mix, sun or shade has given me great results over the years. Joe tells me this mix includes two different rye grass that germinate in approximately 7 days, a red fescue that sprouts in about 14 days, and the Kentucky bluegrass that starts up in about 30 days. This mix is used by some of the toughest critics in the area: The Saratoga Polo Club, Whitney estate, and NYRA.  If you are looking

for a quick cover seed that will germinate under ideal conditions in less than a week, try whole oats.  Joe says this is a favorite for slope and bear spots while awaiting your permanent grass cover to establish. It is usually completely eliminated after 3 mowings.

Now you may be tempted to by an “on-sale/end of season seed closeout” and save until next spring.  Don’t do it!  Check out the bag label to know what percentage and what kind of seeds are in the mix…to include weeds seeds.  Yes, some low quality seeds have this and at an alarmingly high rate in their bags!  Remember you want a mix of seeds that will fit your site conditions.  And lastly, check the test date for these seeds.  Seeds should be used within 9 months of that test date for germination effectiveness.

Know Your Soil
The type of soil whether sandy, clay or loam must be considered before planting any seed.  As with a flower, you may need to do some amending before anything is planted. Take the time to know and understand.  In addition, you need to know your soil pH. Soil pH for turf ranges 6.5-7.2 with optimum at 6.8. Soil testing is really only necessary every 3 years. You can call the Cornell Cooperative Extension Master Gardener lab in Ballston Spa to secure information about taking a soil sample as well as bringing in your sample for pH testing. For a nominal fee the test results not only give you your soil pH, but also will recommend what and how much amendment is needed to raise or lower the pH to reach acceptable ranges.

Spring Dethatching and Aerating
Even healthy lawns can benefit from good aerating. Aerators punch holes in the turf and allow nutrients and air to penetrate the soil. It actually pulls plugs out of your lawn, which remain on top of your grass and decompose there. But forget those advertised tine aerators or strap on shoe types with spikes.  They merely punch holes in the lawn and actually compound soil compaction, the condition you are trying to eliminate through aeration!  I recommend spring aeration in our area as we often get piles of snow lying on the turf for long periods and the aeration provides a great condition to accept your spring pre-emergence and fertilizer applications.

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Dethatching is nothing but good old raking with a sharp tine rake. It removes the layers of roots, stems and other organic matter that builds up over time between the grass and soil line. Generally less than ½ inch is not a problem, but greater than ½ inch prevents nutrients and water from getting to the lawn’s root system. If you want to save your arms and back, see Bob over at Allerdice Rental. Rent out a dethatcher or power rake, when you rent the lawn aerator. 

Right Time/Right Soil Amendment
Each year, our local Turf Guru, Susan Beebee at the Cooperative Extension puts together a valuable lawn care fact sheet outlining specific for applying fertilizers, weed deterrents and insect control specific to our region. Very simply it includes the following:

April 25-May 10  Apply pre-emergent crabgrass control (around the time of peak forsythia bloom)

  • Memorial Day (May 20-30) Apply fertilizer
  • July 4-15    Apply season long grub control
  • August 25-September 10 if season long grub control not applied, use a fast response product.
  • Labor Day (September 1-15) Apply fertilizer and broadleaf control if dandelion and plantain weeds a problem
  • Thanksgiving (or 2 weeks after last mow) Apply fertilizer (best time to achieve a healthy root system and suppress spring weed growth!)

You can call the Master Gardener lab at the Cooperative Extension to secure your own copy of the Lawn Care Facts 2007 for greater details.

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Many homeowners in our area love the Scott’s Lawn Product program. Now remember, you are buying a product versus a well suited regional process.  If you do use this system, Ms Beebe recommends shifting the steps to meet our regional needs. This would entail flipping the order of Step 2 and 3 applications, thus Applying Step 1, Step 3, Step 2, and Step 4.   You can read more about the Scott’s Lawn Products by clicking here.

Mow it High
One of the biggest mistakes homeowners make is to cut their grass too low. We constantly receive requests from customers to “cut it lower”.  Keeping your grass blades about 3 inches helps the turf compete with weeds and actually strengthens the root system! Now the frequency of mowing depends upon the growing season.

Obviously in the spring, growth will be rapid, particularly after fertilization versus the drier/hotter summer weeks.  A good rule of thumb, just as I mentioned with pruning, remove only 1/3 of the grass blade/cut.  Make sure your mower blades are sharp!  This too is a common homeowner mistake. Run over a few sticks and your blades become dull! Unsharp blades wound the grass and increase the chance of disease. Some research has also shown that lawn improperly cut use 30% more water!   Switching to mulch cutting blades on you mow will also allow you to leave the clippings (remember ONLY if you are applying the 1/3 cut rule). The biggest myth is that clipping will cause thatch, not so!  When properly cut and left, clippings can return much needed nitrogen to the lawn. 

Just the Right Amount of Water to Grow
Over the past few growing seasons, Mother Nature has delivered a good amount of natural watering for our lawns. But when this does not happen on a regular basis, you will need to do it yourself. Basically you want to provide watering that reaches approximately 6 inches in depth. This encourages root growth. Lawns need an inch or 2 of water a week to thrive.  Purchase a simple rain gauge to check your levels and determine how much watering you need.  You will want to water for longer periods versus quick drinks everyday or so. Timing of watering is equally important. Water early in the morning: between 4 and 8 AM.  Wet grass at night increases the susceptibility to disease by having wet blades at cooler night temperatures.

In addition to the resources I mentioned, the more serious turf warrior may want to check out a handheld book: Turf grass Problems, Picture Cues and Management Options by Eva Gusack and Frank Rossi.  You can order this gem on line at www.nraes.org (Engineering Service Cooperative Extension Website).  Also consider taking one of Susan Beebee’s Lawn Care Clinics offered each spring at the Saratoga County Cooperative Extension.

Remember don’t buy into the product and advertising. Keep in mind our regional weather, your property specifics, and the turf that has a great track record in our area.   Achieving a healthy home lawn can be simple. If you keep the facts straight and the timing correct.  It will also save you precious time and resources.

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* SueAnn DuBois is a Master Gardener and partner to the husband-wife team of Chips Landscaping.
 Chip’s Landscaping designs, constructs, and maintains outdoor landscape and water garden features in Saratoga County.

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