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Above the ground it is important to consider the major structures in your area. I refer to these as “hardscaping” and include but are not limited to the following: out buildings, pavement, walkways/patios, roof drip lines, fencing, large rocks and walls. This hardscaping is considered a “micro-factor” and is a significant element when looking at climate. Additional above ground features include existing plants, trees and shrubs. Take an inventory of these to decide which will be retained and which you will discard. It is critical to learn to work around these factors with compatibility.
Third Step: Look at the sun/shade exposure. Plants inevitably need sun to grow. They use the sun along with the soil as their food source. But not all plants use these equally. The amount of sun not only affects the plant type, but impacts soil and air temperature. It is very important to identify how much and what part of your property has sun! A common myth is that shade areas remain moist as a result of the shade. But keep in mind that the tree canopy actually filters the amount of overhead water received by rain! Generally a good tool to use is a compass. This will give you an orientation of your property and general hours of sunlight relative to existing structures. Before choosing that plant that looks great on that magazine cover or beautifully displayed in that garden center consider the availability of sun in your planned area. Full sun is generally considered 6 hours +, less is part or filtered sun, then shade. Check your potted plant tags for guidelines to match your area.
Fourth Step: Consider your climate. Plants just like humans have a particular tolerance for cold. Some of us thrive on the ski slopes in the winter…while others retreat to a chair near the woodstove or the southern states for warmth. In gardening, the term “hardiness” is the plant’s rating for their tolerance to cold. The USDA has set up a “hardiness zone” map for the United States. In our region, Cornell had generated a specific map for NYC. This is the best resource for selecting your plants (see chart). Plants rated for zone 5 may do well in town with more paved surfaces, but not so well up on the higher elevations of Greenfield. I usually honor the 5a-4b zone rating for success in our immediate area. However, keep in mind that plants are listed in a range of zones. These are used as “guidelines”. Our winters and amount of snow are factors that remind us: “respect Mother Nature”.
There are exceptions to the general hardiness zones. You will need to consider some of the microfactors I mentioned before. Reflected light from pavements, buildings, and patios will increase the area temperature (did you notice the quick snow melt recently near those areas?). Solid plastic fences around a back yard with old tree canopies can increase the moisture of the area and generate increased moss in the lawn and plant disease. Sloped areas range from cooler at the base to windy drier at the top. If you live on or near Saratoga Lake there are challenges when designing outdoor landscapes due to wind and moderation of temperatures often seen near bodies of water. Gentle wind is great for aeration and circulation to promote plant health. Still air tends to promote disease, while steady wind is stressful to plants and dries the area out quicker. Often times I simply take a look outside the area I am working to see what plantings work at the surrounding older properties. Nothing speaks to plant longevity better than that.
Fifth Step: Know your soil. So much is written about the importance of knowing your soil characteristics. Entire book chapters have been devoted to this topic. I will merely gleam some of the factors and encourage you to secure more details in the suggested reading. First you need to know your soil type. Are you in the clay based area of Malta, sandy soil of Wilton or rocky soil of Greenfield? This texture will impact temperature, drainage and root growth. You will also need to know what the drainage characteristics of the area are. Recently I encountered a property where the homeowner really wanted green lawn in an obvious bog area. Needless to say we recommended reconsidering and matching some plantings to meet that poorly draining area. A very simple drainage test can be performed by digging a pit one foot deep (I use a post hole digger) and filling it with water. Once it has completely drained, refill the pit with water, and note the time. After 15 minutes measure the depth of the water and calculate the rate of drainage inches/hour. You will arrive at the following: Poorly drained: less than 4 inches /hour; moderately drained: 4-8 inches/hour; excessively drained: greater than 8 inches /hour. Soil compacting is another problem that impacts plant growth and health. A simple shovel test will give you an indication: hard, average, or easy. Ways to deal with soil compacting is outlined on the Cornell Gardening website reference. Determining soil pH is one of the most overlooked tools when planning new landscaping. A soil pH test will give you a snapshot of the acidity level. A pH of 7 is well-balanced soil, greater than 7 acid and less than 7 base. Additions of lime or sulfur will change that pH: lime raises, sulfur lowers. Most garden plants prefer a 6.2 - 7 pH range (with a few notable exceptions). Call the Saratoga County Cooperative Extension Master Gardener lab to find out how you can test your soil pH. Lastly there is always an “other” category for consideration. This would look at the amount of road salt the area receives, erosion, noxious weeds, and construction debris. Yes, I said construction debris. If you are a new homeowner you may have been surprised by digging down into your dirt 6 inches or so and finding treated wood and all sorts of trash. This is reality and cannot be overlooked.
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